Culture, Cuisine & Colorful Chaos: Culinary Tour of Tuscany 2015

From espresso’s served at café bars on the way to work, fresh pastries enjoyed over a frothy cappuccino, and afternoon aperitifs of wine, cheese, and meats, the Italian culture has rules of proper ways to eat, drink, and be merry. They say when in Rome, do as the Romans do. So I’ve learned, when in Italy, enjoy as the Italians do.
In our culture a cup of coffee is a life line for the trip to work or a sweetened high calorie treat in the middle of the day. In Italy, an espresso (strong shot of pressed coffee), is usually served at a coffee (café) bar when on the way to another place. The patron walks in, order the espresso, stirs the froth and shoots it back like a tequila. In most cases, it has a very bitter after taste. (Most of us weaklings have to add a sugar in order to get it down.) It’s an eye opener and could contribute to the all-day-long smiles and bright eyes of the Italians. Espresso is usually enjoyed at the top of the day and at the finish of meals. A cappuccino on the other hand is only enjoyed until the noon hours.
The order of drinks is best described as morning espresso, break time cappuccino, wine aperitif, wine during lunch, wine during dinner, and an after dinner espresso. It legitimately works and makes sense with their day, so why argue? Wine is not used to become inebriated. Becoming inebriated is not at all acceptable in the Italian culture. It is essentially considered to be a classless act.
Wine compliments the dish it is enjoyed with. A good dry red is great with a hearty cut of steak. It cuts the fat from the mouth and actually helps to cleanse the palate so other flavors can be enjoyed. A nice Chianti is acceptable with any meal and it’s usually the house wine. Wine does not have to be fancy or expensive to be good.
White wine is generally served with fish and seafood. At the Pesce Azurro, near the coast of the Adriatic Sea, boxed white wine and water are available for refills of which the cost is included in your meal. In Italy, it is not a sin to drink boxed wine. They actually appreciate that it’s kept in a dark, cool, air tight container which keeps the wine well.
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner all have their own sets of rules. There not rules actually, just ways of doing things.
Breakfast is usually a light pastry, croissant, toast, and espresso. It’s on the go. Giacomo, our guide, says he much preferred the American style hearty breakfasts because it keeps him full and well fueled for the long days ahead.
Lunch or dinner either one, can be a two hour affair. Initially lunch was the big meal of the day, with a light dinner and digestive to end the evening. The two hour lunch period is a time to break, meet with family and friends, enjoy the afternoon, catch up on each other’s day, and return to work or school and give it your best. Some Italians have taken up the American habit of a light lunch and save the long meal for evening. Giacomo advised they’re also starting to get heavier with this habit, but they are all so busy that it’s a habit that is becoming more popular.
The longer meals consist of an antipasti. Antipasti is about the same as an appetizer. It’s mean to compliment the meal and entice your hunger. It’s never mean to be a big and full as many American appetizers which leave you wanting a doggie bag for your meal. Oh, and take away (as Italians call it), is not popular. Not many places will allow you to take the food with you. It’s just not heard of.
The antipasti can be crostini with wonderful toppings such as porcini mushrooms with cheese and olive oil, garlic trussed crostini with drizzled olive oil, bruschetta, or bread with a chicken liver pâté. Antipasti can also be a tray of sliced tomatoes and mozzarella, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with fresh basil, or even tray of fresh salamis and cheeses.
The next course is generally called the Primo. Many times it’s a pasta and side dishes. We’ve enjoyed cheese filled ravioli, chestnut pasta with ricotta, spelt salad, Panzanella, pickled cabbages, a salad of greens drizzled with balsamic and olive oil, and even sautéed zucchini. Their imaginations have no boundaries and the food always appeals to the taste buds. Ok, not always, but usually.
Primo is followed by the meat. We’ve had wonderful dishes of roasted pork with fennel, garlic, and rosemary. We’ve also enjoyed roasted chicken, meatballs made of a trio of beef (veal), chicken, and pork that melts in the mouth, and veal with truffles and parmesan.
Italians sweets are not truly sweet. There may be a tad of honey or agave in a treat, but the desserts aren’t usually sugar concoctions in Southern Italy. In many cases the desert is a biscotti, pound cake or dense treat served with a digestive. A digestive is a very sweet name for a concoction that threatens to peel the skin from the insides, from the esophagus to the stomach and come out to do the same to the outside. It’s a burn your tongue and belly kind of drink. With that being said, some people think it’s a sweet and a wonderful addition to finish any meal. That person is not me. The purpose of the digestive (such as Vinsanto, Spinello, or another sipping liquor), is to help digest the foods you’ve just enjoyed. I think it just melts it and you don’t have to worry about it. That and the mountains could be good cause as to why the Italians are generally thinner and in good shape!
The final call is the espresso. Our sweet hosts generally offered a café Americano or cappuccino to the weaklings as well. Toward the end of the trip, I must say, I became accustomed to the espresso to end my day.
The Italian community uses these meals to be with family. The one most important entity in their life. The reason for their existence. Italians work hard, reinvent themselves when times are tough, and enjoy life. Everything is set to help them enjoy life.
I am waiting for my boss to realize that I need a two hour lunch. I may be waiting a long time. Money is key here in America.

Fresh breakfast at the Ostello